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Subject: Home Repair
Posted by: Great One
- [20129413] Thu, Feb 04, 2010, 14:29
I guess GO doing work on his first house qualifies as Gaming and Entertainment, right? :0So here's a warm up question... So I've got a new fan in the kitchen (replaced a chandelier). But now its not quite bright enough in there. The new fan says max wattage of 60W and uses a those mini/candelabra bulbs. So... can I use a halogen mini such as this GE Energy Smart "60W" bulb which in reality only uses 13 watts?... and then using that logic, can I use a "100W" equivalent bulb that actually only uses 23 watts or whatever it works out to? |
| 1 | Great One
ID: 20129413
Thu, Feb 04, 2010, 16:28
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Guy at work saying that halogen would likely get too hot, to look and see if there is such thing as a candelabra based flourescent 100Watt.
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| 2 | GoatLocker
Leader
ID: 060151121
Sun, Mar 07, 2010, 11:03
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Issue is heat released.
That is what you really need to be aware of and know.
As bad as it might be, the real answer is probably to add a fluorescent fixture where you need it to give you more lite.
Typically would think, Stove and sink areas.
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| 3 | Great One
ID: 22237522
Sun, Mar 07, 2010, 12:18
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I did something like that, put those under the cabinet push lights. More or less solved the problem. Another one I'm working on... I've got a small utility room with the furnace, water heater and washer/dryer. This room has a metal bi-fold door on it. This door is falling off the tracks and I can't seem to save it. If I replace it, do I need a metal door (because of its a utility room) or can I just put a regular wooden bi-fold door on there? I can't seem to find a non wooden door at Lowes or Home Depot.
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| 4 | Astade
ID: 38542218
Sun, Mar 07, 2010, 13:06
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How does a metal bi-fold door enhance/preserve your utility
room? Go for the wooden door, you should be fine.
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| 5 | Great One
ID: 22237522
Sun, Mar 07, 2010, 14:39
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I was told by the furnace guy, wood being more flammable I guess?
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| 6 | Mike D
Leader
ID: 041831612
Sun, Mar 07, 2010, 17:27
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We used to have a wooden one at the house we lived in GO. No problems. I guess maybe in the rare case of a fire....or even sparks....but that shouldn't happen. Plus, if it does, and you aren't home.....the rest of the house is in trouble regardless.
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| 7 | Electroman
ID: 565182111
Mon, Mar 08, 2010, 21:14
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At least the door would survive as the rest of the combustable materials around it burn.
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| 8 | Great One
ID: 26234311
Tue, Mar 09, 2010, 09:29
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Well I believe there is a fire wall surrounding the room, whatever that entails. Also the ductwork all have fire dampers in them.
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| 9 | MBT
ID: 191142515
Tue, Mar 09, 2010, 17:54
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I agree with #7 :-) Just make sure the door is slatted, not solid, to allow for ventilation.
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| 10 | astade
Sustainer
ID: 214361313
Tue, Mar 09, 2010, 22:02
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If GO is worried about ignition and a fire starting then wouldn't a 'slatted' door allow a potential fire to breathe?
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| 11 | Perm Dude
ID: 5510572522
Tue, Mar 09, 2010, 22:05
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The slatted doors allow air circulation, so that combustible and toxic fumes don't build up around the furnace. Anything which burns fuel (like a furnace, or a fireplace) needs a flow of fresh air at all times.
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| 12 | astade
Sustainer
ID: 214361313
Tue, Mar 09, 2010, 22:21
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I thought that was what the ductwork w/ fire dampers is for. If you have slatted door then aren't you capable of feeding a fire (if one starts)?
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| 13 | Perm Dude
ID: 5510572522
Tue, Mar 09, 2010, 22:45
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A door without slats isn't capable of stifling a fire completely anyway, but inadequate circulation (which the furnace requires) will only make the furnace a lot less efficient, at best. The slats are for safety and efficiency reasons
Also, if GO lives in a zoned community, slatted doors for the furnace room might be required to meet code.
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| 14 | Great One
ID: 26234311
Wed, Mar 10, 2010, 09:24
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Yes, definitely need the slatted door I was told by the furnace guy. I just can't seem to find a new metal bi-fold door to replace the old broken down metal door. So I'll have to check back with him about the wooden option.
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| 15 | Frick
ID: 723887
Wed, Mar 10, 2010, 10:45
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What type of furnace do you have?
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| 16 | Great One
ID: 26234311
Wed, Mar 10, 2010, 10:55
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A small gas furnace. Don't know much more than that.
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| 17 | Astade
ID: 38542218
Wed, Mar 10, 2010, 11:12
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Based on this thread, I don't think I'm ready to buy a house :)
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| 18 | Great One
ID: 26234311
Wed, Mar 10, 2010, 11:14
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Its been interesting for sure, and I've just got a small condo. Last night I did my first light fixture. Clipped the wires, did the ground wires the whole deal. Not too bad. I have light now in the hallway. Slizz just bought his first place and is getting married, so he can piggyback here and we can help him out too.
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| 19 | Frick
ID: 723887
Wed, Mar 10, 2010, 11:41
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Call your local code compliance office and get the official answer on if you need a wood or metal door.
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| 20 | MBT
ID: 191142515
Wed, Mar 10, 2010, 17:54
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If you really want metal/aluminum try searching for bi-fold shutters instead of doors. I ended up using a wood door for my utility room, but I did have some luck searching for metal shutters which look very similar to doors.
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| 21 | Electroman
ID: 565182111
Wed, Mar 10, 2010, 20:54
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Since you live in a Condo, do they have something that might help you out. I live in one too, and certain things have to be according to certain laws. I also agree with Frick, check at city hall or something.
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| 22 | GO
ID: 56631510
Thu, Aug 15, 2013, 12:30
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Digging this thread up from the grave! Now a HOUSE owner, not a condo...
My toilet sounded like a machinegun in the wall after flushing last night. Any ideas?
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| 23 | Building 7
ID: 247531214
Thu, Aug 15, 2013, 12:48
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Quit eating at taco bell so much.
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| 24 | GO
ID: 56631510
Thu, Aug 15, 2013, 12:54
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I do eat at Taco Bell plenty... but this was a not a solid? flush. And it was in the wall - not the actual toilet.
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| 25 | Building 7
ID: 247531214
Thu, Aug 15, 2013, 13:47
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Sounds like you have air in the lines.
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| 26 | GO
ID: 56631510
Thu, Aug 15, 2013, 13:50
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Yeah I think I have what is called a "hammer" in the pipe by my washer/dryer.
Just not sure what to do about fixing these.
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| 27 | Frick
ID: 432501512
Fri, Aug 16, 2013, 12:16
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You can do some research on "air hammer" on water lines, but I believe it is often associated with insufficient pipe sizes or pipes that turns is certain configurations.
I have a "hammer" in my kitchen sink, but the house was built in the mid 60s and other than the P-traps rusting out and having to be replaced it hasn't failed yet. And yes, I'm frantically looking around for a piece of wood to knock on, so that my house isn't flooded when I get home. Depending on where the piping is, behind dry wall, you might just want to live with it, compared to under the floor and exposed in the basement, which means you might be able to fix it. I've contemplated ripping out the old undersized copper pipe that feeds most of my house and replacing it with PEX. But I emphasize the PEX as it would probably be a couple of weekends and a lot of headaches, and all of my pipes are exposed in the basement.
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| 28 | loki
ID: 7116710
Fri, Aug 16, 2013, 12:38
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Try deceasing the rate of flow as water is filling the tank. This should decrease the vibration in the pipe and either stop or minimize the problem.
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| 29 | loki
ID: 7116710
Fri, Aug 16, 2013, 12:40
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If that works, I'll take Zack Wheeler as payment.
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| 30 | GO
ID: 56631510
Tue, Sep 03, 2013, 09:31
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Hammer in the wall totally fixed by these things I hooked on the washing machine valves called Water Hammer Arrestors (Sioux Chief was the brand). They are essentially shock absorbers to relieve the pressure in the pipe when it would "hammer".
An amazing 20 dollar fix.
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